Unsavory Materiality: The Aesthetics of Institutional Food

A 2008 image of Cheeseburger Macaroni served at a Virginia school.

A 2008 image of Cheeseburger Macaroni served at a Virginia school.

Few dimensions of the material world have more sensory, tactile, and visual impact than food, a point that seems confirmed by the rich food studies scholarship, food advocacy groups ranging from sustainable agriculturalists to local food champions, and the avalanche of desserts on Pinterest.  Nevertheless, somewhat less attention has focused on diners’ experiences of institutional foods: that is, mass-produced foods like the cheese pizza and tater tots clouding elementary school cafetoriums; the nutritionally balanced but unsightly purees scooped onto hospital plates; and the reheated frozen food adorning plastic prison trays and military mess halls.  Observers have long dissected a widespread sentiment that such meals are perceived as unappealing and discarded in massive quantities, but much of this attention fixes on food waste and does not always confront why we find some foods so unappetizing in the first place.

An enormous amount of food photography acknowledges the desires projected onto food and the depth of emotional sentiment invested in images.  A 1996 survey of institutional diners examining negative perceptions of such foods found that consumers rated the “manner of food presentation” lower than every other factor; despite recognizing that many consumers found institutional foods visually unappetizing, though, the study focused on how that reception mirrors our negative stereotypes that precede their consumption, devoting little attention to the ways our visual and sensory interaction with food shapes its consumption.  Observers often seem unable to fathom the idiosyncratic ways we actively perceive, eat, and discard food, and they routinely fail to understand that much of the desire we deny institutional foods is linked to their visual aesthetics.

A "Bacon Chop" dish from an English hospital (from Notes from a Hospital Bed)

A “Bacon Chop” dish from an English hospital (from Notes from a Hospital Bed)

A massive literature examines school lunches, but it tends to revolve around nutrition analyses and the connection between diet, impoverishment, and childhood obesity.  Much of that scholarship and popular commentary on school lunches aspires to manage children’s eating behaviors, or it descends to moralizing about mass foodways and skirts the ethnographic complexities of taste, aesthetics, and food.  Hospital patients are subjected to similarly unappealing food choices, and observers spend much of their attention quantifying waste of the roughly $5 billion spent on hospital food each year.  Nutritionists have long bemoaned the enormous amount of weight patients commonly lose: nevertheless, a 2000 English study concluding that more than 40% of hospital food is not eaten at all; a second study found that 38% of all hospital food was wasted; a 1995-2003 study of Danish hospital and nursing home food reform programs found no significant improvements; and a study of food waste in nursing homes found that 60% of residents consumed less than their daily caloric requirements.

Some easily digestible meals are especially unappealing visually (image from Scrubs)

Some easily digestible meals are especially unappealing visually (image from Scrubs)

Nearly all of the scholarship and popular commentary on institutional foods at least contemplates the appearance of food, but it routinely looms simply as a dismissive aside.  Some of this reflects research methods that revolve around surveys and quantification, which often reduce diners’ visual assessment of foods to “opinion” and conduct no systematic ethnography with food consumers.  Even the best scholarship still tends to psychologize food consumption and our responses to food’s aesthetics, especially among those most unpredictable of institutional diners: kids in public school systems.  Visual appearance of food is enormously difficult to assess systematically:  the aesthetic cues for an “unappetizing” food are fueled by a complex mix of experience, socialization, and personal idiosyncrasies, and much of our emotional feelings for certain foods are relatively inchoate or clumsily articulated.  Food waste, in contrast, is much easier to quantify and serves as a somewhat shocking rallying point for many activists: a 2014 study indicated that in 2010 a stunning 31% of the edible US food supply at retail and consumer levels—133 billion pounds of food–was discarded.  Much of that prodigious waste can be blamed on a terribly inefficient production system, but we appear to have somewhat less systematic insights from consumers dissecting why we discard so much theoretically consumable food.

Driven by personal experiences and the understanding that food’s aesthetics matter, blogs often confront the visual dimensions of institutional food quite systematically; in the case of blogs that focus on institutional foods, they routinely illuminate the distinction between a nutritionally balanced meal and a visually appealing one.  In April 2012, for instance, Scottish primary student Martha Payne launched Never Seconds, a straightforward photograph and commentary on each of her daily school meals.  After the site received over 2 million hits by June the school system forbade her to continue the blog, arguing that  “it misrepresented the options and choices available to pupils . .. we had to act to protect staff from the distress and harm it was causing. In particular, the photographic images uploaded appear to only represent a fraction of the choices available to pupils, so a decision has been made by the council to stop photos being taken in the school canteen.”  However, within a day the school was forced to retreat after an international outcry against the ban.  Notes from a Hospital Bed is a similar long-term hospital patient’s photographic documentation of hospital food offerings and a challenge to identify dishes in a contest he calls “Hospital Food Bingo.”  Hospital Food Review was a cancer survivor’s assessment of hospital cafeteria food that likewise included many images of appealing and unappetizing meals alike.

 

Martha Payne's May 2012 meal at a Scottish primary school (Shepherd's Pie that she characterized as "really nice"; image from Never Seconds).

Martha Payne’s May 2012 meal at a Scottish primary school (Shepherd’s Pie that she characterized as “really nice”; image from Never Seconds).

Martha Payne’s blog on Scottish school meals is simply one of the pages that leverage the aesthetics of institutional meals for various causes.  School Meals that Rock includes a series of lunch photo pages that aspire to photograph school food in appealing forms; the page considers the aesthetics of food, but primarily to demonstrate how photographs can positively represent school lunches.  A host of students and grumpy parents have taken to twitter to post somewhat more explicitly politicized pictures of unappetizing American school lunches and attack First Lady Michelle Obama’s support for American school lunch reforms.

Some institutions like this Calfiornia hospital advertise their fine dining (image Marsha Diamond).

Some institutions like this California hospital advertise their “gourmet cuisine and private suites” (image Marsha Diamond).

Institutional dining choices are governed by far more than aesthetics alone, of course, but many kids in cafeterias, patients on hospital wards, and soldiers in mess halls face a highly standardized diet characterized by modest but consequential visual cues that make such meals unappealing.  Given all the money invested in institutional diets and the dietary consequence of school lunches, prison meals, and hospital foods, it makes sense to also think broadly about the idiosyncratic sensory and emotional dimensions of foodways.  Assuming people will eat in rational and predictable ways is perhaps wishful thinking if not simply naïve, and we certainly might secure some more substantive insights into the sensory dimensions of institutional foodways with a more sustained ethnographic and material focus on consumers.

Thanks to my student Jason Greene, whose Master’s research on hospital food waste and sustainability gave me the idea for this post.  He bears no responsibility for its shortcomings.

 

Sources

A.D. Barton, C.L. Beigg, I.A. Macdonald, and S.P. Allison

2000 High food wastage and low nutritional intakes in hospital patientsClinical Nutrition 19(6):445–449.  (subscription access)

 

Jean C. Buzby and Joanne F. Guthrie

2002 Plate Waste in School Nutrition Programs: Final Report to Congress.  United States Department of Agriculture Food Assistance and Nutrition Research Program.

 

Jean C. Buzby, Hodan Farah Wells, and Jeffrey Hyman

2014 The Estimated Amount, Value, and Calories of Postharvest Food Losses at the Retail and Consumer Levels in the United StatesEconomic Information Bulletin No. EIB-121.

 

Cardello, Armand V., Rick Bell, and F. Matthew Kramer

1996 Attitudes of consumers toward military and other institutional foods.  Food Quality and Preference 7(1): 7-20.

 

Sandra Cate

2008 “Breaking Bread with a Spread” in a San Francisco County Jail.  Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture 8(3):17-24.

 

Jacob J. Feldman

1962 Patients’ opinions of hospital food. Journal of the American Dietetic Association 40:325.

 

Rebecca Godderis

2006 Dining In: The Symbolic Power of Food in PrisonThe Howard Journal of Criminal Justice

45(3):255–267.  (subscription access)

 

J.A. Grieger and C.A. Nowson

2007 Nutrient intake and plate waste from an Australian residential care facilityEuropean Journal of Clinical Nutrition 61:655–663.  (subscription access)

 

Sam Lipschultz and Annie Myers

2009 Real Food, Real Health: Reasons and Resources for Starting Farm to Hospital Programs in the United States.  Unpublished paper.

 

Martha A. Marlette, Susan B. Templeton, and Myna Panemangalore

2005 Food Type, Food Preparation, and Competitive Food Purchases Impact School Lunch Plate Waste by Sixth-Grade StudentsJournal of the American Dietetic Association 105(11):1779–1782.  (subscription access)

 

B E Mikkelsen, A M Beck, and A Lassen

2007 Do recommendations for institutional food service result in better food service? A study of compliance in Danish hospitals and nursing homes from 1995 to 2002–2003European Journal of Clinical Nutrition 61:129–134.

 

Jean Spencer Prideaux

1965 Student Attitudes Toward Residence Hall Dietitians and Directors as Related to Food Acceptance.  Master’s Thesis, Kansas State University.

 

Marian A. E. van Bokhorst−de van der Schueren, Martin M. Roosemalen, Peter J. M. Weijs and Jacqueline A. E. Langius

2012 High Waste Contributes to Low Food Intake in Hospitalized PatientsNutrition in Clinical Practice 27(2):274-280.  (subscription access)

 

Images

Bacon Chop image from Notes from a Hospital Bed

Digestible Meal image from Scrubs

Harrisonburg, Virginia Cheeseburger Macaroni image archived at Communications from Elsewhere

Patients Hospital of Redding ad image from Marsha Diamond Pinterest

Shepherd’s Pie image from Never Seconds

Posted on May 12, 2014, in Uncategorized and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 6 Comments.

  1. This is very interesting (and sad to read). I had no idea of the amount of food wasted at hospitals.

  2. Very interested for mi!,,, thank you!

  3. I think I should print this post for future reference

  4. Very interesting, thankyou. I know that my husband is a great cook, but makes no effort to serve his food attractively, the complaints from our children are predictable; whereas I am less creative in the kitchen, but very focussed on presentation. I fail to understand the lack of care taken by hospital catering staff in the presentation of food for both staff and patients, I do understand time constraints, but airline food is pre-packed and still looks better! For hospital patients, mealtimes are looked forward to, if only to break-up the monotony of the day, I have always found hospital food good to eat but awful to look at!

  5. There is an almost pornographic aspect to much of food imagery these days. As in much of contemporary obsessions with appearances, preferences are massaged through emphasis on presentation. My own personal food habits are much influenced by aroma and the ability to identify foodstuffs’ quality by colour and apparent texture. Mannered presentation can sometimes mask indifferent preparation.
    Institutional food presentation is necessarily influenced by the need to provide food processed en masse, and to offer it in an efficient manner, either hot or cold. This tends to impact on the appearance, texture and flavour of the food delivered. A conundrum, indeed. G

  1. Pingback: Number of the Day: 133 billion pounds of food in 2010 went uneaten | The Paw Report

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